Hi
Sorry for bother you with a basic question.
At my country these connectors are not common.
Please let me know a code or designation name for it! Thanks!
MKS connector
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Re: MKS connector
Hi Jon,
Thanks a lot!
Roberto
Thanks a lot!
Roberto
- Andrew Robinson
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Re: MKS connector
This is the older barrel style for the MKS exhaust controller. The newer controllers use a standard D-sub plug. You can however still find several cables on eBay and from other suppliers.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MKS-Instruments ... SwnHZYa-YL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MKS-CB251-1-10- ... XQTghRLTdI
Read any of the older MKS exhaust controller manuals and you should find plenty of information including pin outs.
Good luck!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MKS-Instruments ... SwnHZYa-YL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MKS-CB251-1-10- ... XQTghRLTdI
Read any of the older MKS exhaust controller manuals and you should find plenty of information including pin outs.
Good luck!
I can wire anything directly into anything! I'm the professor!
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Re: MKS connector
Its an AMP CPC connector.
http://eu.mouser.com/catalog/english/101/1289.pdf
Specifically http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-C ... chJCc7E2c=
Great connectors, used everywhere. Cheap. Just make sure you get the proper style crimper or you will regret it. The kind that fold over the crimp ears into the wire.
http://eu.mouser.com/catalog/english/101/1289.pdf
Specifically http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-C ... chJCc7E2c=
Great connectors, used everywhere. Cheap. Just make sure you get the proper style crimper or you will regret it. The kind that fold over the crimp ears into the wire.
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Re: MKS connector
Andrew, Jerry
Thanks!
I was looking for that codification.
Regards
Thanks!
I was looking for that codification.
Regards
- Rich Feldman
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Re: MKS connector
>> Great connectors, used everywhere. Cheap. Just make sure you get the proper style crimper or you will regret it. The kind that fold over the crimp ears into the wire.
Last month I learned something new about those.
Jerry's comment implies that the contacts for Roberto's connector are "open barrel". The crimping tool transforms a U shape into a supine B shape. Staplers are similar. from Molex crimp inspection guide: http://www.digikey.com/en/pdf/m/molex/v ... -terminals
Closed barrel terminals start with a tubular entry for the wire, that has a longitudinal seam (a brazed joint in better models). What I didn't know for 60 years: most authorities say the single-point indentation should _not_ be on the seam side. from http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0708rc-a ... aves-nine/#
For those who prefer videos: https://youtu.be/3LBZR_XiEnk?t=150
Last month I learned something new about those.
Jerry's comment implies that the contacts for Roberto's connector are "open barrel". The crimping tool transforms a U shape into a supine B shape. Staplers are similar. from Molex crimp inspection guide: http://www.digikey.com/en/pdf/m/molex/v ... -terminals
Closed barrel terminals start with a tubular entry for the wire, that has a longitudinal seam (a brazed joint in better models). What I didn't know for 60 years: most authorities say the single-point indentation should _not_ be on the seam side. from http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0708rc-a ... aves-nine/#
For those who prefer videos: https://youtu.be/3LBZR_XiEnk?t=150
All models are wrong; some models are useful. -- George Box
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Re: MKS connector
Yep, never indent on the soldered side, it usually just cracks and later can result in a bad connection.
NASA actually has an interesting guide on mill spec connects. One thing, NEVER solder crimp terminals The solder wicks up the wire and causes hard spots and if this in in a vibration environment that is where it will break.
The correct crimpers for the job are not terribly priced. The ones for the open barreled connects are probably going to run you at least $30. But it is really worth it, especially if you build a lot of electrical stuff since the same basic crimper can be used on most kinds of open barrel crimps. I have a very simple molex brand crimper that does connections from about 22ga (maybe smaller) to at least 8ga. I also use these crimpers for wire ferrules.
Do you know what a wire ferrule is? Do you just shove stranded wire in a terminal strip? You shouldn't. Get these guys: http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrica ... RRULES.htm
Slide them over the stripped wire and crimp. You will get a much more secure connection with less chance of shorts and just makes working with terminal strips so much easier.
NASA actually has an interesting guide on mill spec connects. One thing, NEVER solder crimp terminals The solder wicks up the wire and causes hard spots and if this in in a vibration environment that is where it will break.
The correct crimpers for the job are not terribly priced. The ones for the open barreled connects are probably going to run you at least $30. But it is really worth it, especially if you build a lot of electrical stuff since the same basic crimper can be used on most kinds of open barrel crimps. I have a very simple molex brand crimper that does connections from about 22ga (maybe smaller) to at least 8ga. I also use these crimpers for wire ferrules.
Do you know what a wire ferrule is? Do you just shove stranded wire in a terminal strip? You shouldn't. Get these guys: http://www.ferrulesdirect.com/electrica ... RRULES.htm
Slide them over the stripped wire and crimp. You will get a much more secure connection with less chance of shorts and just makes working with terminal strips so much easier.