It's been a while since I have posted, in this time I have been chasing down vacuum leaks, my foreline can now pump down to 500-600 micron in less than a minute whcih is not the best vaccume preassure being honest but it could be worse. Un fortunatly when I open my forline valve I loose vaccume preassure or at least I go above the 75000 micron my guage can measure at, so far I have sealed the KF10 port on the turbo, changed the O rings on all the ports but it's still not vaccuming down. I also got a TPC 300 turbo pump controller which I am trying to build a cord for. I did also replace a bearing on the turbo.
Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
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Kaden Daya
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon May 06, 2024 11:11 am
- Real name: Kaden Daya
- Location: Toronto, Canada
Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Hello all,
It's been a while since I have posted, in this time I have been chasing down vacuum leaks, my foreline can now pump down to 500-600 micron in less than a minute whcih is not the best vaccume preassure being honest but it could be worse. Un fortunatly when I open my forline valve I loose vaccume preassure or at least I go above the 75000 micron my guage can measure at, so far I have sealed the KF10 port on the turbo, changed the O rings on all the ports but it's still not vaccuming down. I also got a TPC 300 turbo pump controller which I am trying to build a cord for. I did also replace a bearing on the turbo.
It's been a while since I have posted, in this time I have been chasing down vacuum leaks, my foreline can now pump down to 500-600 micron in less than a minute whcih is not the best vaccume preassure being honest but it could be worse. Un fortunatly when I open my forline valve I loose vaccume preassure or at least I go above the 75000 micron my guage can measure at, so far I have sealed the KF10 port on the turbo, changed the O rings on all the ports but it's still not vaccuming down. I also got a TPC 300 turbo pump controller which I am trying to build a cord for. I did also replace a bearing on the turbo.
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JoeBallantyne
- Posts: 541
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:08 pm
- Real name: Joe Ballantyne
- Location: Redmond, WA
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Hi Kaden -
I see an awful lot of NPT threaded parts in some of the pictures you posted.
You really really want to stay AWAY from threaded parts as much as possible.
Just don't use them.
You need to get your pump converted to KF as close to the inlet as possible, and then just use KF or conflat the rest of the way.
The more NPT joints you have, the more likely leaks you have.
500 - 600 microns is actually pretty terrible.
That pump should pull down to a few microns within a couple of minutes or so if you have a good vacuum gauge connected to its inlet with no leaks.
Why did you remove the black plastic cap from the top connector on the pump? You shouldn't even be using that connector at all.
The fact that you opened up the turbo to work on it, means that you may have compromised the vacuum seals in the turbo.
Which may be why you can't pull any vacuum at all on your chamber setup.
What kind of seals are you using with your conflats? Copper, or elastomer?
Did you tighten the conflat bolts in the correct sequence, and to the correct torque levels? (Yes, there is a tightening pattern you are supposed to follow...)
Did you ever try to pull a vacuum on the system before you worked on the turbo?
You need to get the pump pulling down to a few microns, and then slowly add hardware to the setup, and verify that you can still pull a good vacuum as you go.
If I were you, I would get a KF to conflat adapter, and just disconnect the turbo from the setup completely. Try just pumping down your chamber and the plumbing that attaches it to your mechanical pump.
If you run your pump too long, at too high a pressure, it will damage the pump.
Joe.
I see an awful lot of NPT threaded parts in some of the pictures you posted.
You really really want to stay AWAY from threaded parts as much as possible.
Just don't use them.
You need to get your pump converted to KF as close to the inlet as possible, and then just use KF or conflat the rest of the way.
The more NPT joints you have, the more likely leaks you have.
500 - 600 microns is actually pretty terrible.
That pump should pull down to a few microns within a couple of minutes or so if you have a good vacuum gauge connected to its inlet with no leaks.
Why did you remove the black plastic cap from the top connector on the pump? You shouldn't even be using that connector at all.
The fact that you opened up the turbo to work on it, means that you may have compromised the vacuum seals in the turbo.
Which may be why you can't pull any vacuum at all on your chamber setup.
What kind of seals are you using with your conflats? Copper, or elastomer?
Did you tighten the conflat bolts in the correct sequence, and to the correct torque levels? (Yes, there is a tightening pattern you are supposed to follow...)
Did you ever try to pull a vacuum on the system before you worked on the turbo?
You need to get the pump pulling down to a few microns, and then slowly add hardware to the setup, and verify that you can still pull a good vacuum as you go.
If I were you, I would get a KF to conflat adapter, and just disconnect the turbo from the setup completely. Try just pumping down your chamber and the plumbing that attaches it to your mechanical pump.
If you run your pump too long, at too high a pressure, it will damage the pump.
Joe.
Last edited by JoeBallantyne on Tue Dec 03, 2024 8:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Rich Gorski
- Posts: 339
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- Real name: Rich Gorski
- Location: Illinois
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Kaden,
You should be able to get into the single digit micron vacuum level when you have the fore line valve closed or at least a few tens of microns. When you open the fore line valve you register a pressure of 75000 microns which is as high as the gauge goes. So there’s a major leak after the fore line valve. From your last photo its hard to see what vacuum connections your using. To help you out I need to see your vacuum connections between TA500 and the turbo pump and see where your vacuum gauge is connected. Please take a few photos and post.
If you can’t find the leak with the whole vacuum chamber connected you have to start with the minimum parts connected and then add one part at a time. Start with the vacuum gauge connected right after the TA500 pump and add the fore line valve. Get a KF25 blank and blank off the valve and measure vacuum level after several minutes of pumping. It should get into a few tens of microns. If it's good then add the next part blanked off which is the connection to the turbo pump. Keep going by adding and blanking off sections until you have the entire chamber connected and see a good vacuum level. You might have to purchase a KF blank or two. They should be inexpensive, KF25 blank ~ $10 Amazon. large diameter conflat blanks could run around $100. Hopefully you won't need those. The conflat seals should be good as long as you have cranked the bolts down to the proper torque on the copper seals. It's hard to make a mistake on those. I hope you haven't used rubber o-ring on the conflat parts. While this is possible it is not desirable.
I see from you photos that your trying to connect the turbo electrical by pushing wires into the plugs. Bad idea. I can help you out here. I have a spare cable set for a Pfeiffer TMH050 turbo pump and TCP040 controller, both power cable and turbo cable. I believe it’s the same cables for the TCP300 controller and TPU170 pump that you have (see photo below). If you want my cables I can send them to you no charge (Log on, click on my name and send me a private email). Don't forget to insert the o-ring back on the plug connector on the turbo. That plug is a vacuum seal.
Good luck with your build.
Rich G.
Ps. What was your reason for replacing the bearing on the turbo? Did the rotor not spin freely? noise?
You should be able to get into the single digit micron vacuum level when you have the fore line valve closed or at least a few tens of microns. When you open the fore line valve you register a pressure of 75000 microns which is as high as the gauge goes. So there’s a major leak after the fore line valve. From your last photo its hard to see what vacuum connections your using. To help you out I need to see your vacuum connections between TA500 and the turbo pump and see where your vacuum gauge is connected. Please take a few photos and post.
If you can’t find the leak with the whole vacuum chamber connected you have to start with the minimum parts connected and then add one part at a time. Start with the vacuum gauge connected right after the TA500 pump and add the fore line valve. Get a KF25 blank and blank off the valve and measure vacuum level after several minutes of pumping. It should get into a few tens of microns. If it's good then add the next part blanked off which is the connection to the turbo pump. Keep going by adding and blanking off sections until you have the entire chamber connected and see a good vacuum level. You might have to purchase a KF blank or two. They should be inexpensive, KF25 blank ~ $10 Amazon. large diameter conflat blanks could run around $100. Hopefully you won't need those. The conflat seals should be good as long as you have cranked the bolts down to the proper torque on the copper seals. It's hard to make a mistake on those. I hope you haven't used rubber o-ring on the conflat parts. While this is possible it is not desirable.
I see from you photos that your trying to connect the turbo electrical by pushing wires into the plugs. Bad idea. I can help you out here. I have a spare cable set for a Pfeiffer TMH050 turbo pump and TCP040 controller, both power cable and turbo cable. I believe it’s the same cables for the TCP300 controller and TPU170 pump that you have (see photo below). If you want my cables I can send them to you no charge (Log on, click on my name and send me a private email). Don't forget to insert the o-ring back on the plug connector on the turbo. That plug is a vacuum seal.
Rich G.
Ps. What was your reason for replacing the bearing on the turbo? Did the rotor not spin freely? noise?
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Cassio_Alvarenga
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Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
A shiver went down my spine when I read this, I know exactly what you are going through.
"Nature abhors a vacuum" said Aristotle.
Another saying I would use in this situation is a German saying "The devil hides in corners" which refers to the problem usually being found in simple places that we don't pay much attention to.
A leak of >75,000 microns (about >100 torr) This is a large leak, I believe you can hear it, put a blanket around the vacuum pump and run your finger (or use a sheet of paper) to cover the joints that may be leaking, you may hear a change in the sound.When you open the fore line valve you register a pressure of 75000 microns which is as high as the gauge goes.
You can also try using soap bubbles to find this leak, apply positive pressure to the system, using an air compressor (or even blowing with your mouth through the inlet hose, since the leak is large) take a dishwashing sponge, put detergent and make up suds to put between the cracks that may leak.
For now try this, if you can't find it, come back here and I'll give you other simple procedures to find this leak
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Kaden Daya
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon May 06, 2024 11:11 am
- Real name: Kaden Daya
- Location: Toronto, Canada
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Joe, if I would have to replace my forline are there any forline pumps with a KF25 port direct on them needing no threaded parts and if so could you recommend some. Also I am using copper gaskets on my seals and am fairly certain that it is the turbo that is leaking once i get an adapter from kf to cf I will try pumping down the chamber without the turbo attached to see.
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JoeBallantyne
- Posts: 541
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:08 pm
- Real name: Joe Ballantyne
- Location: Redmond, WA
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Kaden -
I would NOT get another pump.
I posted about that TA500 Kozyvacu pump that you are using. When I did, I also posted about how to build an adapter with links to the appropriate parts, for adapting from the horizontal 1/4 inch male flare adapter that is a standard HVAC connector to a KF16 connector. The adapter requires use of 2 parts that are connected (very unfortunately) with NPT. But I have not been able to find another option. Ideally the Brownian Motion folks would build a 1 piece flare to KF adapter, but I haven't found one of those yet that is all metal and works well. (There is a brass converter I found, but it is not one metal piece, and it has a rubber seal in it, and it leaks - so it is useless.)
Here is a link to my post about the adapter. It is in the vacuum FAQ.
viewtopic.php?t=15463
Build the adapter. Use it. Run KF connections the rest of the way to your fusor. Then you will have only 1 NPT connection in your system. Get the turbo out of the equation. I think that will resolve your vacuum issues.
Put the black plastic cap that goes on the vertical connector back on the pump, and leave that vertical port capped off.
The only thing you should use it for, is venting your system before you shut off the pump. (Just open up the vertical cap a bit, until you hear the pump sound change, and then shut off the pump. Make sure to close the cap again before turning on the pump.) Right now it looks like you have something connected to that vertical input port. Disconnect it and close it off.
You might need to build TWO of the adapters. One to connect to the horizontal flare connector on the pump, and one to connect your vacuum gauge to KF as well. Since I think you bought a vacuum gauge with an HVAC connector on it.
What connector does your vacuum gauge have on it? Is it the 1/4 flare, or is it 1/2 inch Acme?
The vertical connection on the TA500 is a 1/2 inch Acme male connection, the horizontal connection is a 1/4 inch flare male connector. Of course you need the corresponding female connectors to connect to them. (Note that NEITHER one of the vacuum pump connections is NPT, and you will only permanently damage the connectors if you attempt to forcibly screw an NPT connector onto them. It WON'T WORK, so don't try it.) One of the things about vacuum, that you learn pretty quick, is that you HAVE to get the right adapters to adapt from one type of connection to another, and there are a LOT of different types of connections. All of them incompatible with each other...
I just left the cap on the 1/2 ACME male, and used it for venting only.
Joe.
I would NOT get another pump.
I posted about that TA500 Kozyvacu pump that you are using. When I did, I also posted about how to build an adapter with links to the appropriate parts, for adapting from the horizontal 1/4 inch male flare adapter that is a standard HVAC connector to a KF16 connector. The adapter requires use of 2 parts that are connected (very unfortunately) with NPT. But I have not been able to find another option. Ideally the Brownian Motion folks would build a 1 piece flare to KF adapter, but I haven't found one of those yet that is all metal and works well. (There is a brass converter I found, but it is not one metal piece, and it has a rubber seal in it, and it leaks - so it is useless.)
Here is a link to my post about the adapter. It is in the vacuum FAQ.
viewtopic.php?t=15463
Build the adapter. Use it. Run KF connections the rest of the way to your fusor. Then you will have only 1 NPT connection in your system. Get the turbo out of the equation. I think that will resolve your vacuum issues.
Put the black plastic cap that goes on the vertical connector back on the pump, and leave that vertical port capped off.
The only thing you should use it for, is venting your system before you shut off the pump. (Just open up the vertical cap a bit, until you hear the pump sound change, and then shut off the pump. Make sure to close the cap again before turning on the pump.) Right now it looks like you have something connected to that vertical input port. Disconnect it and close it off.
You might need to build TWO of the adapters. One to connect to the horizontal flare connector on the pump, and one to connect your vacuum gauge to KF as well. Since I think you bought a vacuum gauge with an HVAC connector on it.
What connector does your vacuum gauge have on it? Is it the 1/4 flare, or is it 1/2 inch Acme?
The vertical connection on the TA500 is a 1/2 inch Acme male connection, the horizontal connection is a 1/4 inch flare male connector. Of course you need the corresponding female connectors to connect to them. (Note that NEITHER one of the vacuum pump connections is NPT, and you will only permanently damage the connectors if you attempt to forcibly screw an NPT connector onto them. It WON'T WORK, so don't try it.) One of the things about vacuum, that you learn pretty quick, is that you HAVE to get the right adapters to adapt from one type of connection to another, and there are a LOT of different types of connections. All of them incompatible with each other...
I just left the cap on the 1/2 ACME male, and used it for venting only.
Joe.
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Kaden Daya
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon May 06, 2024 11:11 am
- Real name: Kaden Daya
- Location: Toronto, Canada
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Hi Joe,
The reason why am I having to replace my foreline is because it is sealed, I used jbweld on the NPT part connections which was somewhat successful in changing my forline preassure down from 5000 micron to 400-500 micron but if I cannot improve the seal better I will most likely have to replace my forline, if I replace my forline are their any more scientific readilidly avalible vacuum pumps that may take KF25 fittings?
Sincerly,
K.D
The reason why am I having to replace my foreline is because it is sealed, I used jbweld on the NPT part connections which was somewhat successful in changing my forline preassure down from 5000 micron to 400-500 micron but if I cannot improve the seal better I will most likely have to replace my forline, if I replace my forline are their any more scientific readilidly avalible vacuum pumps that may take KF25 fittings?
Sincerly,
K.D
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JoeBallantyne
- Posts: 541
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2010 4:08 pm
- Real name: Joe Ballantyne
- Location: Redmond, WA
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Kaden -
So you epoxied something directly onto a vacuum pump connector that was actually designed so that you could repeatedly connect and disconnect things to it? But instead of using it as designed, you attached something to it with epoxy instead?
Why?
Why didn't you just do what I said to do in my posts about the Kozyvacu TA500?
Are there other scientific mechanical pumps that you can buy with KF connectors already on them? Sure. But new they typically cost a couple thousand dollars or more depending on the pump. If you buy one used they have completely unpredictable performance. Many may not pull a good enough vacuum to do fusion with just the single mechanical pump.
If building a two part adapter to go from HVAC to KF is too difficult for you, then achieving fusion is likely beyond your reach. Especially when what is involved in building said adapter, is reading a post, clicking on a couple links, making a couple of Amazon purchases, and then screwing together a single NPT joint with PTFE tape.
I don't know of any inexpensive new mechanical pumps that come with KF connectors. All of the inexpensive pumps come with HVAC connections on them, which means you HAVE to build an adapter (without using epoxy) to connect them to KF.
I really don't know what to say. I give a step by step, detailed set of instructions, and you do something else that doesn't work.
You best bet IMO, if you want a decent pump, that is new, and inexpensive, is to just buy another TA500.
Build the adapter correctly, and DON'T try screwing NPT connectors onto non NPT connections. Also do NOT use epoxy on connections that can be vacuum tight WITHOUT the use of epoxy. The problem as you have discovered, is that if you use epoxy, you get ONE shot. If you mess that one up, and your epoxied connection leaks, you are basically screwed. You can't just disconnect your adapter, and reassemble it a second time. If that epoxied connection is onto a part of your actual vacuum pump, then you have just ruined your pump.
Never epoxy anything directly to your vacuum pump vacuum connectors.
Just don't.
Joe.
So you epoxied something directly onto a vacuum pump connector that was actually designed so that you could repeatedly connect and disconnect things to it? But instead of using it as designed, you attached something to it with epoxy instead?
Why?
Why didn't you just do what I said to do in my posts about the Kozyvacu TA500?
Are there other scientific mechanical pumps that you can buy with KF connectors already on them? Sure. But new they typically cost a couple thousand dollars or more depending on the pump. If you buy one used they have completely unpredictable performance. Many may not pull a good enough vacuum to do fusion with just the single mechanical pump.
If building a two part adapter to go from HVAC to KF is too difficult for you, then achieving fusion is likely beyond your reach. Especially when what is involved in building said adapter, is reading a post, clicking on a couple links, making a couple of Amazon purchases, and then screwing together a single NPT joint with PTFE tape.
I don't know of any inexpensive new mechanical pumps that come with KF connectors. All of the inexpensive pumps come with HVAC connections on them, which means you HAVE to build an adapter (without using epoxy) to connect them to KF.
I really don't know what to say. I give a step by step, detailed set of instructions, and you do something else that doesn't work.
You best bet IMO, if you want a decent pump, that is new, and inexpensive, is to just buy another TA500.
Build the adapter correctly, and DON'T try screwing NPT connectors onto non NPT connections. Also do NOT use epoxy on connections that can be vacuum tight WITHOUT the use of epoxy. The problem as you have discovered, is that if you use epoxy, you get ONE shot. If you mess that one up, and your epoxied connection leaks, you are basically screwed. You can't just disconnect your adapter, and reassemble it a second time. If that epoxied connection is onto a part of your actual vacuum pump, then you have just ruined your pump.
Never epoxy anything directly to your vacuum pump vacuum connectors.
Just don't.
Joe.
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Rich Gorski
- Posts: 339
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2022 4:34 pm
- Real name: Rich Gorski
- Location: Illinois
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Kaden,
Oh no, JB weld on the fittings!
OK, very likely you will have to get a new TA500 pump and start over but I wouldn't give up on the old one just yet. I have an idea to salvage the situation but I need to see exactly what the pump fitting look like with the JBweld.
1. Can you take a few close up photos of the pump from a few angles and post them?
2. What about the vacuum gauge? Is that JBwelded too? Include the vacuum gauge in the photo if that is also WBwelded.
Thanks,
Good luck.
Rich G.
Oh no, JB weld on the fittings!
OK, very likely you will have to get a new TA500 pump and start over but I wouldn't give up on the old one just yet. I have an idea to salvage the situation but I need to see exactly what the pump fitting look like with the JBweld.
1. Can you take a few close up photos of the pump from a few angles and post them?
2. What about the vacuum gauge? Is that JBwelded too? Include the vacuum gauge in the photo if that is also WBwelded.
Thanks,
Good luck.
Rich G.
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Kaden Daya
- Posts: 22
- Joined: Mon May 06, 2024 11:11 am
- Real name: Kaden Daya
- Location: Toronto, Canada
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Hi,
I took your advice and did not get a diffrent pump, I bought a new Kozyvacu TA-500 and vaccume guage, I also ordered a KF25 bellows, KF25 to NPT, 1/4 Flare Tee, 1/4 Flare to 1/4 NPT, and yellow PTFE tape.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kozyvacu-Refriger ... 01N0SYCL4/
https://www.amazon.ca/Precision-Three-W ... 07TFGPVCZ/
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-59953-Propa ... 0056ODEP8/
https://www.amazon.ca/ISO-KF-Corrugated ... 08KH7M9KR/
https://www.amazon.ca/EZ-FLO-50033-Tefl ... 00838JDRM/
https://www.amazon.ca/Bettomshin-Sanita ... 099WQ2J89/
I have a few questions though, the threads on the flare end of my Flare to NPT are very short and are hard to thread on with the last time I used one, also do you know anywhere I can get actual DOW Coving grease?
I took your advice and did not get a diffrent pump, I bought a new Kozyvacu TA-500 and vaccume guage, I also ordered a KF25 bellows, KF25 to NPT, 1/4 Flare Tee, 1/4 Flare to 1/4 NPT, and yellow PTFE tape.
https://www.amazon.ca/Kozyvacu-Refriger ... 01N0SYCL4/
https://www.amazon.ca/Precision-Three-W ... 07TFGPVCZ/
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-59953-Propa ... 0056ODEP8/
https://www.amazon.ca/ISO-KF-Corrugated ... 08KH7M9KR/
https://www.amazon.ca/EZ-FLO-50033-Tefl ... 00838JDRM/
https://www.amazon.ca/Bettomshin-Sanita ... 099WQ2J89/
I have a few questions though, the threads on the flare end of my Flare to NPT are very short and are hard to thread on with the last time I used one, also do you know anywhere I can get actual DOW Coving grease?
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JoeBallantyne
- Posts: 541
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- Real name: Joe Ballantyne
- Location: Redmond, WA
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Kaden -
I put up links to the correct parts to buy in my post.
You bought an inverted flare. That is NOT the same thing as a flare part. It won't work. Don't use it.
Why can't you just click on the links in my posts, and actually buy the correct parts?
Why is that so difficult for you?
Joe.
I put up links to the correct parts to buy in my post.
You bought an inverted flare. That is NOT the same thing as a flare part. It won't work. Don't use it.
Why can't you just click on the links in my posts, and actually buy the correct parts?
Why is that so difficult for you?
Joe.
Last edited by JoeBallantyne on Wed Dec 18, 2024 12:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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JoeBallantyne
- Posts: 541
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- Real name: Joe Ballantyne
- Location: Redmond, WA
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
It looks like the KF parts you bought are also incorrect. At least in the pictures they have a METRIC M12 thread.
That is not what you need. You can't screw an NPT part into a straight metric thread. It won't work.
Again, you needed to read my post, and click on two links, and buy the parts.
But you did something else.
Then you wonder why stuff doesn't work.
NPT screws in to NPT, nothing else. It is a tapered NON METRIC thread. M12 is a non tapered METRIC thread.
Inverted flare is ABSOLUTELY NOT the same thing as a female flare. That is why it has a DIFFERENT NAME.
When are you just going to click on the links in my posts, and buy the correct parts? Ones that actually properly screw together, and screw onto your pump properly?
You didn't why? Because they cost a few bucks more?
Joe.
That is not what you need. You can't screw an NPT part into a straight metric thread. It won't work.
Again, you needed to read my post, and click on two links, and buy the parts.
But you did something else.
Then you wonder why stuff doesn't work.
NPT screws in to NPT, nothing else. It is a tapered NON METRIC thread. M12 is a non tapered METRIC thread.
Inverted flare is ABSOLUTELY NOT the same thing as a female flare. That is why it has a DIFFERENT NAME.
When are you just going to click on the links in my posts, and buy the correct parts? Ones that actually properly screw together, and screw onto your pump properly?
You didn't why? Because they cost a few bucks more?
Joe.
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JoeBallantyne
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- Real name: Joe Ballantyne
- Location: Redmond, WA
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
So the Lasco part is not currently available on Amazon. So then what you do is you cut and paste the exact name of the part, and you do a Google search. And you find it CURRENTLY AVAILABLE on Walmart.com.
Here is the link:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/LASCO-17-678 ... /142896428
Well, when I first posted, it was available, but now it is not. So you do another search for the correct part a LASCO-17-6783, and you find someone who has it in stock, and sells online, and you buy it. Or, you find a local parts store that has it in stock. Or you do the research to find another manufacturer that makes the same part that cross references to the Lasco 17-6783, and you buy that.
Joe.
Here is the link:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/LASCO-17-678 ... /142896428
Well, when I first posted, it was available, but now it is not. So you do another search for the correct part a LASCO-17-6783, and you find someone who has it in stock, and sells online, and you buy it. Or, you find a local parts store that has it in stock. Or you do the research to find another manufacturer that makes the same part that cross references to the Lasco 17-6783, and you buy that.
Joe.
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Rich Gorski
- Posts: 339
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2022 4:34 pm
- Real name: Rich Gorski
- Location: Illinois
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Kaden,
If you bought the same vacuum gauge (The NAVTEK) you may still have a problem with connecting the gauge because it has yet another type of connector a male 7/16-20UNF.
There’s another simple way to handle this with your new pump. You can buy a 1/2" female HVAC hose that will connect directly to the ½" male ACME flare on the pump. These hoses should be good for pressure and vacuum. Then you would cut the other connector off and connect the open hose end onto a barbed KF25 adapter with a hose clamp. The KF25 adapter will connect to one end of a KF25 tee and the second end of the Tee onto your turbo. Simple. The third end of the tee will connect your vacuum gauge with a 7/16-20UNF hose and KF25 barb connector. Note that the 7/16-20UNF will not work with the ACME fittings on your TA500 or NPT threads. You can buy a 7/16-20UNF female HVAC hose also and cut it. Simple, straight forward and it will connect everything including the turbo.
If you want to go this way. Let me know and I will respond with the links of items to buy all on Amazon. Cost about $100 for everything.
Rich G.
If you bought the same vacuum gauge (The NAVTEK) you may still have a problem with connecting the gauge because it has yet another type of connector a male 7/16-20UNF.
There’s another simple way to handle this with your new pump. You can buy a 1/2" female HVAC hose that will connect directly to the ½" male ACME flare on the pump. These hoses should be good for pressure and vacuum. Then you would cut the other connector off and connect the open hose end onto a barbed KF25 adapter with a hose clamp. The KF25 adapter will connect to one end of a KF25 tee and the second end of the Tee onto your turbo. Simple. The third end of the tee will connect your vacuum gauge with a 7/16-20UNF hose and KF25 barb connector. Note that the 7/16-20UNF will not work with the ACME fittings on your TA500 or NPT threads. You can buy a 7/16-20UNF female HVAC hose also and cut it. Simple, straight forward and it will connect everything including the turbo.
If you want to go this way. Let me know and I will respond with the links of items to buy all on Amazon. Cost about $100 for everything.
Rich G.
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JoeBallantyne
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- Real name: Joe Ballantyne
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Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Kaden -
You can buy a used MKS901p for about $100. If you get the right one, it already has a KF connector on it. It is likely a much better gauge than what you got, given that new it goes for $1000+.
Joe.
You can buy a used MKS901p for about $100. If you get the right one, it already has a KF connector on it. It is likely a much better gauge than what you got, given that new it goes for $1000+.
Joe.
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JoeBallantyne
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Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Another supplier for the correct 1/4" female flare to 1/4" MPT adapter. Note that if you get this, you should just buy the proper KF to 1/4 NPT adapter from bmotiontech that I linked to on Amazon. Yes, it costs a bit more, but it is the CORRECT thread for this part.
https://www.dkhardware.com/larsen-suppl ... 31383.html
Joe.
https://www.dkhardware.com/larsen-suppl ... 31383.html
Joe.
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JoeBallantyne
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Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
The nice thing about Amazon, is that you can just return all of the incorrect parts that you bought, and get your money back.
Which you should do. (I would return the vacuum gauge you bought also, and just get an MKS901p instead.)
Also, IMO you are better off if you can just get the PTFE taped NPT joint vacuum tight WITHOUT using vacuum grease. So if I were you I would not try to get vacuum grease. You are better off, if you can get your system vacuum tight without using any of it.
Joe.
Which you should do. (I would return the vacuum gauge you bought also, and just get an MKS901p instead.)
Also, IMO you are better off if you can just get the PTFE taped NPT joint vacuum tight WITHOUT using vacuum grease. So if I were you I would not try to get vacuum grease. You are better off, if you can get your system vacuum tight without using any of it.
Joe.
Last edited by JoeBallantyne on Wed Dec 18, 2024 2:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Kaden Daya
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- Location: Toronto, Canada
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Hello,
I am sorry, as I am in Canada parts from amazon.com will not ship to me or will not arrive in any from of ontime, I can cancel the inverted flare and KF25 to m12 and order the ones you linked, also the walmart part you attached is also sold out. Rich, the guage is the same as i used last time and can pump down to 4 micron with just the guage attached, it is a 1/4 flare adapter. And joe do you know where I can get actual DOW Coving grease?
Sincerly,
K.D
I am sorry, as I am in Canada parts from amazon.com will not ship to me or will not arrive in any from of ontime, I can cancel the inverted flare and KF25 to m12 and order the ones you linked, also the walmart part you attached is also sold out. Rich, the guage is the same as i used last time and can pump down to 4 micron with just the guage attached, it is a 1/4 flare adapter. And joe do you know where I can get actual DOW Coving grease?
Sincerly,
K.D
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JoeBallantyne
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Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Per my previous post which I was editing when you just posted, you are better off WITHOUT the vacuum grease.
Might be a bit more difficult to get the NPT joint vacuum tight using just the PTFE tape, but when you do, it will stay that way, regardless of how hot things get.
I put a lot of posts up today, please read them all carefully. One of them links to a currently available version of the female flare part you need.
Joe.
Might be a bit more difficult to get the NPT joint vacuum tight using just the PTFE tape, but when you do, it will stay that way, regardless of how hot things get.
I put a lot of posts up today, please read them all carefully. One of them links to a currently available version of the female flare part you need.
Joe.
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Rich Gorski
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- Location: Illinois
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Don't forget if you buy the MKS901p you will either have to buy the controller (many hundreds of $) or try to figure out how to both power it up (DC power supply) and then understand the analog output through the serial port without a controller. It will be a voltage output that you have to convert to a pressure reading with a calculation.
If I were you I would take the easy way as I described above. Simple. Just have to buy a two readily available HVAC hoses and two hose barb KF25 adapters and the KF25 Tee. Inexpensive and on Amazon. Everything will be connected including you current vacuum gauge. I only wish I would have thought of this approach sooner.
As far as the grease. I buy a lot of stuff from LDS Vacuum in Florida.
Here's an equivalent grease. 4oz jar $19
https://www.ldsvacuumshopper.com/silvacgreas.html
Rich G.
If I were you I would take the easy way as I described above. Simple. Just have to buy a two readily available HVAC hoses and two hose barb KF25 adapters and the KF25 Tee. Inexpensive and on Amazon. Everything will be connected including you current vacuum gauge. I only wish I would have thought of this approach sooner.
As far as the grease. I buy a lot of stuff from LDS Vacuum in Florida.
Here's an equivalent grease. 4oz jar $19
https://www.ldsvacuumshopper.com/silvacgreas.html
Rich G.
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JoeBallantyne
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Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
You can get an MKS901p control board that powers the device and displays its pressure from my store on this site for $20 shipped.
Courtesy of Phillipe David and Finn Hammer.
Said control board reads the pressure out from the device digitally and then displays it. No screwing around with the analog output.
Hundreds of dollars? I think not.
Joe.
Courtesy of Phillipe David and Finn Hammer.
Said control board reads the pressure out from the device digitally and then displays it. No screwing around with the analog output.
Hundreds of dollars? I think not.
Joe.
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Rich Gorski
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Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Sorry Joe I wasn't aware of that item in your store.
Rich G.
Rich G.
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Kaden Daya
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- Real name: Kaden Daya
- Location: Toronto, Canada
Re: Kaden's Fusor Progesss | Chasing Leaks
Hello,
Today I managed to get my TPU-170 turbopump spinning, thabk you so much to all the resources and people on this forum and thank you to Rich Gorski for sending me his turbo cable and helping me get the controller working!
Sincerely,
K.D
Today I managed to get my TPU-170 turbopump spinning, thabk you so much to all the resources and people on this forum and thank you to Rich Gorski for sending me his turbo cable and helping me get the controller working!
Sincerely,
K.D