I recently acquired a -50kV Spellman XLF power supply which I intend to use to power the inner grid of a fusor. I had a few questions about it that I'm hoping people who frequent this forum can answer....
The plug on the end of the power cord (i.e. the thing you plug into the wall) has been cut off. How would I go about attaching a new one? Can I just solder a new one on and cover the joint with heat shrink tubing or is there a better way to do this (I assume there is)? I should note that the cord is extremely heavy duty - it's upwards of half an inch in diameter - which suggests that I'll need a similarly heavy duty plug.
I'm not sure which of the power cord wires are which. The green and yellow wire (see picture) is bolted directly to the case so it is obviously the ground, but I don't know which of the remaining two wires (brown and blue) is which or if they are interchangeable. The brown and the blue wires are attached directly to the switch on the front of the case and then to a circuit board (see picture). Does anyone know how I can tell which is which?
I'm going to need find someway to attach the supply to the fusor. The HV socket on the case is massive and the necessary plug is obviously not something I'm going to find at my local Radioshack . I'm sure Spellman would be more than happy to sell me one for a ridiculous price, but I'd like to avoid having to pay that. Is there any source of cheap compatible plug/cable assemblies or way that I could make one?
The manual for the supply can be found here: http://www.spellmanhv.com/Technical-Res ... LFMAN.ashx
Thanks!
A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
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John Futter
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Re: A Few Questions Reguarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
Nat
It worries me that you have to ask how to wire a standard mains plug to a standard international spec cable. Green /yellow is earth Brown is phase blue is neutral. If you are american then green/yellow = green brown = black and blue = white.
As for the high voltage out I would make a plug using the socket on the back by using silicon grease as a release agent and casting cable and contacts in one go. Enough grease has to be put on the contacts so that no epoxy goes down into the metal sockets.
Do not use polyester resin ie clearcast or similar
make sure the resin is a true epoxy or get an underground cable repair pack from your local electrical supplier.
It worries me that you have to ask how to wire a standard mains plug to a standard international spec cable. Green /yellow is earth Brown is phase blue is neutral. If you are american then green/yellow = green brown = black and blue = white.
As for the high voltage out I would make a plug using the socket on the back by using silicon grease as a release agent and casting cable and contacts in one go. Enough grease has to be put on the contacts so that no epoxy goes down into the metal sockets.
Do not use polyester resin ie clearcast or similar
make sure the resin is a true epoxy or get an underground cable repair pack from your local electrical supplier.
Re: A Few Questions Reguarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
I've never pretended to have much practical electrical experience. I wasn't aware that there were different specs for international cables so I assumed that this was non-standard.
It certainly would not have occurred to me to cast the plug. It has the potential to get glued in place, but at least it would still work.... I'd just never get it out... I have several gallons of West Systems 105, 205 epoxy on hand. Would that work or do I need some sort of special electrical specific epoxy?
It certainly would not have occurred to me to cast the plug. It has the potential to get glued in place, but at least it would still work.... I'd just never get it out... I have several gallons of West Systems 105, 205 epoxy on hand. Would that work or do I need some sort of special electrical specific epoxy?
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Chris Bradley
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Re: A Few Questions Reguarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
nathaniel wrote:
> I recently acquired a -50kV Spellman XLF power supply which I intend to use to power the inner grid of a fusor.
> The plug on the end of the power cord (i.e. the thing you plug into the wall) has been cut off. How would I go about attaching a new one?
We live in highly litigious societies in these times, and though this is clearly a public forum with all due caveats that can easily be claimed and discussed in court to mount what I would expect would be an effective defence, I still wonder over the trouble and embroilment that the more 'senior' contributors [who are easily identifiable, after all] might get into if confronted by the [wealthy/legal profession] parents of a dead fusor hobbyist. This has been on my mind recently in similar posts and why I have played a bit of a nanny.
By having asked this question, it is clear you're not going to understand why I'm so concerned about this. However, it is the sort of question you need to be asking someone 'local' to you who can provide this kind of advice, because you should plan to have your electrical installations inspected by someone with a sufficiently competent working knowledge to support you. Asking for advice on this forum will not be a suitable substitute.
Until that time, it is a matter of due diligence that I say to you; you should NOT proceed with electrical work unless suitably supervised at your location.
Why has the plug been taken off? It's the kind of thing I do when a bit of kit is defective, to avoid it being plugged in. Is it 230V? Who knows, we're not there. I say 'do x y and z', you get dead, I get sued. What advice/information/help are you expecting?
I am wondering if it is a time that the Perfesser needs to be adding in some prominent legalese flags with specific limitations of liability both for himself and all who contribute. It's not just what "is" said, but also what "isn't" said when there's a clear potential danger that someone appears to be risking, but isn't warned.
All that said, you have acted wisely in asking the question. Therefore I am not suggesting you are not properly managing the risks, and you have proceeded sensibly in respect of those things you do not know. The answer to your sensible question, then, is stop what you are doing and seek the help you need locally.
> I recently acquired a -50kV Spellman XLF power supply which I intend to use to power the inner grid of a fusor.
> The plug on the end of the power cord (i.e. the thing you plug into the wall) has been cut off. How would I go about attaching a new one?
We live in highly litigious societies in these times, and though this is clearly a public forum with all due caveats that can easily be claimed and discussed in court to mount what I would expect would be an effective defence, I still wonder over the trouble and embroilment that the more 'senior' contributors [who are easily identifiable, after all] might get into if confronted by the [wealthy/legal profession] parents of a dead fusor hobbyist. This has been on my mind recently in similar posts and why I have played a bit of a nanny.
By having asked this question, it is clear you're not going to understand why I'm so concerned about this. However, it is the sort of question you need to be asking someone 'local' to you who can provide this kind of advice, because you should plan to have your electrical installations inspected by someone with a sufficiently competent working knowledge to support you. Asking for advice on this forum will not be a suitable substitute.
Until that time, it is a matter of due diligence that I say to you; you should NOT proceed with electrical work unless suitably supervised at your location.
Why has the plug been taken off? It's the kind of thing I do when a bit of kit is defective, to avoid it being plugged in. Is it 230V? Who knows, we're not there. I say 'do x y and z', you get dead, I get sued. What advice/information/help are you expecting?
I am wondering if it is a time that the Perfesser needs to be adding in some prominent legalese flags with specific limitations of liability both for himself and all who contribute. It's not just what "is" said, but also what "isn't" said when there's a clear potential danger that someone appears to be risking, but isn't warned.
All that said, you have acted wisely in asking the question. Therefore I am not suggesting you are not properly managing the risks, and you have proceeded sensibly in respect of those things you do not know. The answer to your sensible question, then, is stop what you are doing and seek the help you need locally.
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Carl Willis
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Re: A Few Questions Reguarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
Hi Nathaniel,
Lowes or Home Depot sell appropriate plugs. They all pretty much use screws to hold the wire. Don't solder the wire to the plug terminals; this could damage the plug.
My guess is that the power supply was delivered in the condition seen, with no plug attached. It is listed as a "220V" unit. Thus, it will probably work as designed on single-phase 240V / 60 Hz as found in American residences, as well as American 208 / 3-phase if used in a phase-to-phase configuration, as well as European 220V / 50 Hz single phase. It is unlikely to matter here whether the blue or brown wires are on phases or neutrals. There are many kinds of plugs that could be attached, and many markets served by a unit specified like this one. Your most likely scenario is single-phase 240V from an American household I am guessing.
Everyone else's words of caution are to be heeded. This is hopefully not your first foray into line-powered electronics or high voltage, but the question leaves open the possibility that it is. I don't have any good advice on the HV connection. It might be a Federal connector but I can't really tell. In any case, the real part will be expensive and the kluges that come to mind are pretty sloppy and involve lots of grease.
-Carl
Lowes or Home Depot sell appropriate plugs. They all pretty much use screws to hold the wire. Don't solder the wire to the plug terminals; this could damage the plug.
My guess is that the power supply was delivered in the condition seen, with no plug attached. It is listed as a "220V" unit. Thus, it will probably work as designed on single-phase 240V / 60 Hz as found in American residences, as well as American 208 / 3-phase if used in a phase-to-phase configuration, as well as European 220V / 50 Hz single phase. It is unlikely to matter here whether the blue or brown wires are on phases or neutrals. There are many kinds of plugs that could be attached, and many markets served by a unit specified like this one. Your most likely scenario is single-phase 240V from an American household I am guessing.
Everyone else's words of caution are to be heeded. This is hopefully not your first foray into line-powered electronics or high voltage, but the question leaves open the possibility that it is. I don't have any good advice on the HV connection. It might be a Federal connector but I can't really tell. In any case, the real part will be expensive and the kluges that come to mind are pretty sloppy and involve lots of grease.
-Carl
Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
As you guessed, the power supply was delivered without the plug. It was guaranteed to be fully functional by the seller (with the exception of the missing plug) so presumably it works, but I'll believe it when I see it.
This is a 600W (50kV, 12mA) model and the sticker on the back reads 115V. That means it could only be the 115Vac, 50-60Hz single phase model (see page two of http://www.spellmanhv.com/Technical-Res ... LFMAN.ashx) I believe you must have been looking at the specs for the 1200W model.
It appears you were absolutely correct about what kind of HV plug that was; it's a 75kV, 3 conductor Federal Standard X-ray connector.
I went out of my way to purchase a high end commercially manufactured power supply (as opposed to cobbling together something myself) because I am aware of my limitations and wanted to minimize the amount of high voltage construction I have to do. Rest assured, I have no intention of turning this power supply or any other element of the fusor's high voltage system on before I've had it inspected by someone who is knowledgeable and experienced enough to determine if I'm doing something fatally wrong. When I go to do that however, it would be helpful if there was a plug already on it.
This is a 600W (50kV, 12mA) model and the sticker on the back reads 115V. That means it could only be the 115Vac, 50-60Hz single phase model (see page two of http://www.spellmanhv.com/Technical-Res ... LFMAN.ashx) I believe you must have been looking at the specs for the 1200W model.
It appears you were absolutely correct about what kind of HV plug that was; it's a 75kV, 3 conductor Federal Standard X-ray connector.
I went out of my way to purchase a high end commercially manufactured power supply (as opposed to cobbling together something myself) because I am aware of my limitations and wanted to minimize the amount of high voltage construction I have to do. Rest assured, I have no intention of turning this power supply or any other element of the fusor's high voltage system on before I've had it inspected by someone who is knowledgeable and experienced enough to determine if I'm doing something fatally wrong. When I go to do that however, it would be helpful if there was a plug already on it.
Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
Nathaniel -
First - you've bought an excellent HV supply, with plenty of oomph. As Carl suggested, I would also have guessed it was a 240V input. But 120V input can certainly deliver 600 watts at the HV end... given Spellman's typical high conversion efficiency.
I couldn't tell just from looking whether the HV connector was a Federal Std or an Alden type. If Fed. Std, you can get a cable with plug from a shop that does Xray equipment servicing. Fed std cables for 75 kV are not particularly cheap, but can be gotten in lengths up to about 20 ft if needed....think in terms of $20 - $30 /ft as a nominal price for used, but serviceable cable.
If you can lay hands on a piece of single or 3 conductor Xray cable, you can purchase a Fed Std. plug kit, that has all the parts. Years ago, they were around $100 each new. The kit has, plug ends to be crimped/soldered on the cable conductors, grease, epoxy and the misc. hdwre you need. Can't recall if it comes with a new threaded ring. With a bit of scrounging, you might find a older kit with outdated epoxy in it. 3M sells the necessary epoxy... which is typically black and very simlar to the Scotch HV UG distribution cable splice material, that many larger Electrical Supply houses handle.
The cables are usually EPR insulated... which you can seal with the epoxy. don't use polyethylene of any kind with the epoxy... it just won't bond to it.
I do know that RTV -11 ( a GE Silicone rubber product) bonds well to silicone and EPR rubber, but not sure how well it will seal against the plug casting of the Fed Std.
With a suitable primer it probably would be serviceable if you can't locate the epoxy.
That's all I can add to everyone else's good advice.
Oh... one last point: Check to see what is connected to the three terminals at the power supply end of the HV socket. If the pins go to an HV isolated filament supply transformer, you need to be sure you don't connect them together as that will burn out the isolating transformer.
If you are going to use a 3-conductor HV cable as a single conductor cable, or if you are using a single conductor HV cable, you will need to make the plug up with just one connection pin, leave the others, unconnected. Connect to the pin that the HV output connects to in the supply.
Then at the fusor or load end of the 3conductor cable, connect all three together, so they are all at the same potential. If you're using a single conductor HV cable... there's nothing else to do.
Dave Cooper
First - you've bought an excellent HV supply, with plenty of oomph. As Carl suggested, I would also have guessed it was a 240V input. But 120V input can certainly deliver 600 watts at the HV end... given Spellman's typical high conversion efficiency.
I couldn't tell just from looking whether the HV connector was a Federal Std or an Alden type. If Fed. Std, you can get a cable with plug from a shop that does Xray equipment servicing. Fed std cables for 75 kV are not particularly cheap, but can be gotten in lengths up to about 20 ft if needed....think in terms of $20 - $30 /ft as a nominal price for used, but serviceable cable.
If you can lay hands on a piece of single or 3 conductor Xray cable, you can purchase a Fed Std. plug kit, that has all the parts. Years ago, they were around $100 each new. The kit has, plug ends to be crimped/soldered on the cable conductors, grease, epoxy and the misc. hdwre you need. Can't recall if it comes with a new threaded ring. With a bit of scrounging, you might find a older kit with outdated epoxy in it. 3M sells the necessary epoxy... which is typically black and very simlar to the Scotch HV UG distribution cable splice material, that many larger Electrical Supply houses handle.
The cables are usually EPR insulated... which you can seal with the epoxy. don't use polyethylene of any kind with the epoxy... it just won't bond to it.
I do know that RTV -11 ( a GE Silicone rubber product) bonds well to silicone and EPR rubber, but not sure how well it will seal against the plug casting of the Fed Std.
With a suitable primer it probably would be serviceable if you can't locate the epoxy.
That's all I can add to everyone else's good advice.
Oh... one last point: Check to see what is connected to the three terminals at the power supply end of the HV socket. If the pins go to an HV isolated filament supply transformer, you need to be sure you don't connect them together as that will burn out the isolating transformer.
If you are going to use a 3-conductor HV cable as a single conductor cable, or if you are using a single conductor HV cable, you will need to make the plug up with just one connection pin, leave the others, unconnected. Connect to the pin that the HV output connects to in the supply.
Then at the fusor or load end of the 3conductor cable, connect all three together, so they are all at the same potential. If you're using a single conductor HV cable... there's nothing else to do.
Dave Cooper
Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
Before you switch this on make sure you have it inspected by some-one who is qualified.
According to the label in your third photo, which I have blown up and re-posted (or at least I think I have), It is 250 volt and 25 amp.The wiring is green/yellow=earth,
brown=live, and blue =neutral.
In England we only get 13 amps from the wall sockets. This is 25 amps (I don't know if you get 25 amps from the wall socket where you are.
In England this would have to be wired into what we call a cooker socket, ie a socket for an electric cooker. Therse are 'hard wired', and don't have plugs.
So this would need to be wired directly into a 25 amp source.
We have 32 amp external plugs (for outside), You could use the equivalent where you are. These are used on generators on building sites, camp sites, marinas, etc. (for mains 'hook up' (They come in different ratings, 16 amps, 32 amps, 80 amps, I think, over here.)
I hope this is of some assistance, and repeat do not connect this up until it has been ckecked.
(I usually make my own HV connectors, but, not knowing the output voltage I'm unable to advise in this instance.)
According to the label in your third photo, which I have blown up and re-posted (or at least I think I have), It is 250 volt and 25 amp.The wiring is green/yellow=earth,
brown=live, and blue =neutral.
In England we only get 13 amps from the wall sockets. This is 25 amps (I don't know if you get 25 amps from the wall socket where you are.
In England this would have to be wired into what we call a cooker socket, ie a socket for an electric cooker. Therse are 'hard wired', and don't have plugs.
So this would need to be wired directly into a 25 amp source.
We have 32 amp external plugs (for outside), You could use the equivalent where you are. These are used on generators on building sites, camp sites, marinas, etc. (for mains 'hook up' (They come in different ratings, 16 amps, 32 amps, 80 amps, I think, over here.)
I hope this is of some assistance, and repeat do not connect this up until it has been ckecked.
(I usually make my own HV connectors, but, not knowing the output voltage I'm unable to advise in this instance.)
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Re: A Few Questions Reguarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
> I am wondering if it is a time that the Perfesser needs to be adding in some prominent legalese flags with specific limitations of liability both for himself and all who contribute.
I have been told in the past that if there is a pond on my
property, and I put up a 20 foot high barbed wire fence to keep
people out of it, then if some one goes and rents a helicopter
to jump into my pond, they can still sue me.
I have been told in the past that if there is a pond on my
property, and I put up a 20 foot high barbed wire fence to keep
people out of it, then if some one goes and rents a helicopter
to jump into my pond, they can still sue me.
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Chris Bradley
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Re: A Few Questions Reguarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
The likely chance of accident of an unfenced pond are significantly higher than that of a fenced one. If you have taken measures to get risk to As-Low-As-Reasonably-Practical and exercised due diligence, then a case against you is unlikely to proceed. There *may* still be issues over the civil liabilities of related accidents, though unlikely, but particularly you'll avoid potential criminal charges.
To fail to execute reasonable due diligence in a case of injury is normally the cue to look at potential criminal charges.
If one of my kids, under the age of majority, goes on a website and gets encouraged by older, regular contributors to participate in a potentially lethal activity for which he has no experience or qualification, without any form of recommendation that he seeks 'proper' local advice and supervision even after he's demonstrated a clear lack of basic knowledge, and he is injured or killed as a consequence, you can be damned sure I'd go after those contributors. Maybe a tricky case to demonstrate clear causality, but I'd not rest until I'd tried.
Nor, I should say, is it good enough to suggest "you should be careful, maybe you shouldn't do it, but it's up to you" - that is far too equivocal a piece of advice to demonstrate due diligence.
Sorry, that's how I see it. So any young'uns who ask how to fit a plug to a 50kV PSU - you can say or not say what you like, but I'll tell 'em to stop - advice they might ignore, but advice nonetheless...
The point in Nathaniel's clear favour is that he did come to ask. No technical (non-trolling!!) question is ever too silly or stupid to ask and in point of fact he's demonstrated maturity in asking, rather than risk electrocuting himself trying on his own. The fact is that this forum isn't just a talking shop but, rather, promotes experimentation. A kid who asks should then receive some cautionary advice where there are evident risks.
To fail to execute reasonable due diligence in a case of injury is normally the cue to look at potential criminal charges.
If one of my kids, under the age of majority, goes on a website and gets encouraged by older, regular contributors to participate in a potentially lethal activity for which he has no experience or qualification, without any form of recommendation that he seeks 'proper' local advice and supervision even after he's demonstrated a clear lack of basic knowledge, and he is injured or killed as a consequence, you can be damned sure I'd go after those contributors. Maybe a tricky case to demonstrate clear causality, but I'd not rest until I'd tried.
Nor, I should say, is it good enough to suggest "you should be careful, maybe you shouldn't do it, but it's up to you" - that is far too equivocal a piece of advice to demonstrate due diligence.
Sorry, that's how I see it. So any young'uns who ask how to fit a plug to a 50kV PSU - you can say or not say what you like, but I'll tell 'em to stop - advice they might ignore, but advice nonetheless...
The point in Nathaniel's clear favour is that he did come to ask. No technical (non-trolling!!) question is ever too silly or stupid to ask and in point of fact he's demonstrated maturity in asking, rather than risk electrocuting himself trying on his own. The fact is that this forum isn't just a talking shop but, rather, promotes experimentation. A kid who asks should then receive some cautionary advice where there are evident risks.
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Carl Willis
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Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
The preceding comment is inaccurate advice.
In case there is any confusion...photo #3 clearly shows the top of the LINE SWITCH, and its own specs. Just because a switch is rated for 250V / 25A does not mean the unit containing the switch will draw this, nor that the unit should be plugged into 250V!! 250V exceeds the specs of the 220V model. The photos don't seem to show enough detail to determine if it is 220 or 115, but the original poster has indicated that it is definitely 115 at this point. Plug either 220 or 115 model into 250V, and parts get fried. Since it is the 115V model, rated for 600W delivered, there will be nothing close to 25A in the power cord.
-Carl
In case there is any confusion...photo #3 clearly shows the top of the LINE SWITCH, and its own specs. Just because a switch is rated for 250V / 25A does not mean the unit containing the switch will draw this, nor that the unit should be plugged into 250V!! 250V exceeds the specs of the 220V model. The photos don't seem to show enough detail to determine if it is 220 or 115, but the original poster has indicated that it is definitely 115 at this point. Plug either 220 or 115 model into 250V, and parts get fried. Since it is the 115V model, rated for 600W delivered, there will be nothing close to 25A in the power cord.
-Carl
Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
"The preceding comment is inaccurate advice"
My mistake. Carl. I've buil all my HV supplies from scratch, but he size of the mains lead would suggest it draws a fairly high current. Please ignore my previous post entirely.
Ash.
My mistake. Carl. I've buil all my HV supplies from scratch, but he size of the mains lead would suggest it draws a fairly high current. Please ignore my previous post entirely.
Ash.
Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
Hi gents,
Nathan,
A few comments on the XLF:
1. It is designed to drive an X-ray tube, using a closed loop filament/emission control loop. If you try to run it without the tube, it won't think its regulating current, and you will get a fault shutdown.
2. If you can, snap a pic of the Spellman label on the rear panel. I need to see if the unit has a special model code, like "XLF50N600X####". This will tell me the details of the model.
3. HV Connector: It's a "Fed standard". Millions in the world. Try to find one used. Should be cheap. (A qucik look on e-bay came up empty though).
If you cannot, let me know, and maybe I have something around I can send you.
4. Given #1 above, and the dialog preceding my response, I'm a bit reluctant to guide you through bypassing the fault you are bound to get when you attempt to operate without the X-ray tube. If you can assure us you are qualified to open the cover (unpowered of course) and accept responsibility (not to fly your helicopter into the lake), I can give you some guidance on getting the XLF to actually output some HV.
Best Regards,
Cliff Scapellati
Executive Vice President of Engineering
Spellman High Voltage Electronics
631-630-3110
Nathan,
A few comments on the XLF:
1. It is designed to drive an X-ray tube, using a closed loop filament/emission control loop. If you try to run it without the tube, it won't think its regulating current, and you will get a fault shutdown.
2. If you can, snap a pic of the Spellman label on the rear panel. I need to see if the unit has a special model code, like "XLF50N600X####". This will tell me the details of the model.
3. HV Connector: It's a "Fed standard". Millions in the world. Try to find one used. Should be cheap. (A qucik look on e-bay came up empty though).
If you cannot, let me know, and maybe I have something around I can send you.
4. Given #1 above, and the dialog preceding my response, I'm a bit reluctant to guide you through bypassing the fault you are bound to get when you attempt to operate without the X-ray tube. If you can assure us you are qualified to open the cover (unpowered of course) and accept responsibility (not to fly your helicopter into the lake), I can give you some guidance on getting the XLF to actually output some HV.
Best Regards,
Cliff Scapellati
Executive Vice President of Engineering
Spellman High Voltage Electronics
631-630-3110
Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
Cliff Scapellati wrote:
> Hi gents,
>
> Nathan,
> A few comments on the XLF:
>
> 1. It is designed to drive an X-ray tube, using a closed loop filament/emission control loop. If you try to run it without the tube, it won't think its regulating current, and you will get a fault shutdown.
>
> 2. If you can, snap a pic of the Spellman label on the rear panel. I need to see if the unit has a special model code, like "XLF50N600X####". This will tell me the details of the model.
>
> 3. HV Connector: It's a "Fed standard". Millions in the world. Try to find one used. Should be cheap. (A qucik look on e-bay came up empty though).
> If you cannot, let me know, and maybe I have something around I can send you.
>
> 4. Given #1 above, and the dialog preceding my response, I'm a bit reluctant to guide you through bypassing the fault you are bound to get when you attempt to operate without the X-ray tube. If you can assure us you are qualified to open the cover (unpowered of course) and accept responsibility (not to fly your helicopter into the lake), I can give you some guidance on getting the XLF to actually output some HV.
P.S. I just checked the standard XLF schematic. It does NOT have a fault for no beam emmission regulation, so you should be able to get HV out of it. You can connect all three pins on the Fed-Std connector together. The filament runs in current mode control, so it likes a short circuit.
BE CAREFUL!
>
> Best Regards,
> Cliff Scapellati
> Executive Vice President of Engineering
> Spellman High Voltage Electronics
> 631-630-3110
> Hi gents,
>
> Nathan,
> A few comments on the XLF:
>
> 1. It is designed to drive an X-ray tube, using a closed loop filament/emission control loop. If you try to run it without the tube, it won't think its regulating current, and you will get a fault shutdown.
>
> 2. If you can, snap a pic of the Spellman label on the rear panel. I need to see if the unit has a special model code, like "XLF50N600X####". This will tell me the details of the model.
>
> 3. HV Connector: It's a "Fed standard". Millions in the world. Try to find one used. Should be cheap. (A qucik look on e-bay came up empty though).
> If you cannot, let me know, and maybe I have something around I can send you.
>
> 4. Given #1 above, and the dialog preceding my response, I'm a bit reluctant to guide you through bypassing the fault you are bound to get when you attempt to operate without the X-ray tube. If you can assure us you are qualified to open the cover (unpowered of course) and accept responsibility (not to fly your helicopter into the lake), I can give you some guidance on getting the XLF to actually output some HV.
P.S. I just checked the standard XLF schematic. It does NOT have a fault for no beam emmission regulation, so you should be able to get HV out of it. You can connect all three pins on the Fed-Std connector together. The filament runs in current mode control, so it likes a short circuit.
BE CAREFUL!
>
> Best Regards,
> Cliff Scapellati
> Executive Vice President of Engineering
> Spellman High Voltage Electronics
> 631-630-3110
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honickmonster
- Posts: 49
- Joined: Fri Jun 08, 2007 6:57 pm
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Re: A Few Questions Regarding a Spellman XLF Power Supply
This seller has a listing for x-ray cable has been up on ebay for quite a while, and I have bought quite a bit of cable from the seller, he is very easy to deal with. He mentions that he can supply cable with the male x-ray connector still attached, for additional cost. He also has female connectors if you need them.
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/3toedtreetoad
I have no connection with the seller.
Matthew
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/3toedtreetoad
I have no connection with the seller.
Matthew